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Young, Self Employed, No Accounts And No Savings. How Did I Get A Mortgage?

I was having considerable problems getting a mortgage to buy my first home about four years ago. If I was to believe everything I had heard, I was the ideal candidate for a mortgage – young, a first-time buyer and with an annual income of about 30k. Easy!

No, not easy, actually. Being young with a leaning towards enjoying myself, I had no savings – nothing to use as a deposit. But what about these 100% mortgages I had been hearing about? Surely I qualified? Oh, there was something else – I was also self employed with no accounts.

Self employed with no accounts and no savings.

Could I get a mortgage? It was virtually impossible. Not a single High Street lender would give me a mortgage. Even my bank who have had my services for ten years turned me down; even though my bank knew exactly how much I earned each year and how much I spent each week; even though my bank knew that making the monthly payments on a repayment mortgage would not be an big problem for me.

Then I heard about Self Certification Mortgages.

What is a Self Certification Mortgage? It’s essentially a mortgage whereby you decide whether or not you are capable of making the repayments. And that is when the penny dropped, because you see the entire process of applying for a mortgage is premised upon an institution (such as your bank) deciding whether or not you are able to make the monthly repayments.

And what is the formula for working this out? Well, if you are employed it is your salary – a bank will lend you, say, 3 or 4 times your annual salary. Normally they will ask you for a small deposit, say 5%, to demonstrate that your intentions are serious.

Obviously, if you are self employed, and particularly with no accounts, you often do not have an annual salary and you are unable to demonstrate regular monthly income. Many self employed people – notably me – live hand-to-mouth, regularly waiting for reluctant clients to settle outstanding invoices. So how can your ability to repay a mortgage be judged? I discovered that self certification was the answer – i.e. YOU. You make a judgement as to whether or not you are borrowing too much money and whether or not you will be able to afford the monthly repayments. After all, if you are bright enough to run your own business, manage your own tax affairs, handle purchasing and invoicing, surely you are bright enough to work out whether you can repay your mortgage!

Think about it – conventional, salary-based mortgages are judged on the basis of what a person has earned in the past, but a person could be made unemployed within hours of securing a mortgage. On the other hand, Self Certification puts the onus on you predicting what you will earn in the future. Sure, you could go out of business, but a salaried person could also lose their job.

So I thought, well this is good, but I bet that a Self Certification Mortgage is the stuff of loan sharks, with huge interest rates, crushing monthly repayments and Guantanemo-style penalties.

But there was something else I discovered about mortgages. Although the High Street is swamped by lenders, there are only actually a very small number of ‘actual’ lenders: the majority are intermediaries acting on their behalf, because the number of mortgage applications is so great that intermediaries are required to perform the process of judging each applicant and assessing risk.

So I discovered that whereas a High Street lender would turn me down, a smaller lender might accept me. But get this: the mortgage that I actually received from the small lender at the end of the day was exactly the same as the mortgage which had been refused me by the High Street lender! Only the forumla for judging my ability to repay the mortgage was different, not the mortgage itself!

So what’s the catch with Self Cerftification? There is always a catch in my experience, and in this instance it was a very big catch. Whereas a regular mortgage requires the borrower to contribute a deposit of, say, 5%, my Self Certification Mortgage required a deposit of 15%. Fifteen percent!! Of course I can see why they ask for this, why if you are not being judged using the conventional formula you are expected to show some serious committment. But I didn’t have any savings. I was young and self employed for crying out loud.

So what did I do? Okay, I would not recommend this to everybody, but I was desperate for my own home and I knew that I could afford the repayments. I took out a Personal Loan shortly before my mortgage application and, supplemented with a timely invoice payment, I was able to pay the deposit and afford the key refurbishment costs on the property (roof, re-wiring, plumbing etc).

On the High Street this would be called a Home Improvement Loan and acquired AFTER you have obtained a mortgage and purchased the property. I simply borrowed a little more in the form of a Personal Loan before I had acquired a mortgage. I was fortunate in that I could afford to carry the costs of these repayments for the forseeable future and I had bought on a rising market – the value of my property was already more than the mortgage and personal loan combined before I had even finished the refurbishment (ie. 4 months after buying the property). I would not recommend this to everyone, and you have to be very, very clear about how much you are borrowing and what the total repayments will be.

However, getting on the property ladder and having my own home was the most important thing to me, and it just goes to show that if you look beyond the High Street you can actually find the same or similar financial products but with less of the hassle. The High Street had always made me feel inadequate, a financial failure

You might be interested to know that, because I was still looking for the catch in my Self Certification Mortgage, I went to a respected, independent financial advisor recently (on the High Street as it happens) and asked if I should change my mortgage to something better. His advice was that I had got a very good mortgage deal and that I should stick with it for the forseeable future. So I have.

Richard

Now, heres a real tax savings to the individual taxpayer with dependents. The child tax credit is a direct federal income tax credit based on the number of dependent children in your family. This federal tax credit is available to provide credit to taxpayers with income below certain established levels. Started in 2003 and going to 2010, the maximum credit per child is 1000 and is first applied to reduce or eliminate the taxpayers federal tax liability. In 2011, the Sunset Provision will decrease the tax credit unless the credit is extended or made permanent.

How does this federal tax credit work and who qualifies for this credit? Well, lets start with the last question first. Every family with children qualifies, however the federal tax credit phases out when income is above 110,000 for married filing jointly, 75,000 for single, head of household, or widow, and 55,000 for married filing separately. In addition, the child tax credit might be limited by the amount of income tax you owe as well as any alternative minimum tax you might owe. But like everything else in this world, there are exceptions. If the amount of your child tax credit is greater than the amount of federal income tax you owe, you may be able to claim a portion or all of the difference as an “additional” Child Tax Credit.

First exception: if your earned income exceeds 10,750, you may be able to claim up to 15 percent of that amount. Second exception: if you have three or more qualifying dependent children in your family, you may claim up to the amount of Social Security taxes you paid during the year, minus any Earned Income Tax Credit you received. If you qualify under both these exceptions, you receive the greater of the two amounts, up to the difference between your federal tax liability and your regular Child Tax Credit. You may want to seek a tax professional for help with this credit.

Now, to answer the how does it work aspect; the best approach might be to simply break down the requirements, and explain each fully. The child tax credit is the responsibility of the Internal Revenue Service (IRS), and the credit issuance is determined through the federal tax returns the individual taxpayer completes each year. Taxpayers must complete either the 1040 or the 1040A and the IRS form 8812. The IRS will then determine eligibility, and process accordingly; the requirements and limits change each year, so the individuals eligibility may change each year.

In order to qualify, a family must have earned at least 10,500 in income, and that figure will rise each year, according to inflation. There must also be at least one qualifying child. In order to be classified as a qualifying child, the child must meet the following requirements: under age 17 of the tax year, claimed on your tax return as a dependent, must pass the relationship test (son, daughter, stepchild, grandchild, brother, sister, foster child, adopted child, etc.), be a US citizen or a resident alien, and have a social security number.

During its original year of inception, many families with qualifying children were mailed an advance federal income tax credit of either 300 or 400 pounds; but they were also told this would reduce their end-of-year tax credit, pound for pound.
The method used for determining the tax credit is fairly simple, and is not difficult to calculate; however, any individual taxpayer with uncertainty should seek the advice and assistance of a tax professional when preparing their federal tax return.

The credits, as stated earlier are claimed when you complete a 1040 or 1040A and file your returns with the Internal Revenue Service. Although many individual taxpayers pay for a professional to complete their federal tax returns each year, there are qualified preparers that are available free of charge each year, through the IRS; either way, make sure that you communicate your qualifications for the child tax credit, and check your tax return to see that the credit was applied. You do not want to let this tax credit slip by.

The child tax credit, along with the Hope and Lifetime Learning credits are a direct means to affect the individual taxpayers tax liability and offer some level of tax relief. This is meant to help parents with the costs associated in raising children, and educating them. Most often, the child tax credit is a way to alleviate the existing federal tax liability for middle-income taxpayers. For the extremely low income families, there is often no income tax due, so there is no allowable tax credit. Although it does not help the poverty level families as a form of federal income tax refund or tax-free income, it does help to alleviate any federal tax liability. The Earned Income Credit is used by many poverty level or low-income families as a supplement to their earned income.

Motorists may not need to put the brakes on their lifestyles to save at the pump. Try these simple fuel-saving tips instead.

• Keep the tires of your vehicle properly inflated. The U.S. Department of Energy reports that underinflated tires increase fuel consumption by up to 6 percent and one study estimates that 50 to 80 percent of all tires on the road are underinflated. By these estimates, the U.S. could save up to 2 billion gallons of gas each year simply by properly inflating tires.

• Regularly replace your air filter. A clogged air filter can increase fuel consumption by as much as 10 percent. An added bonus: Air filters keep impurities from damaging the interior of the engine. Replacing them won’t just save you gas. It could save your engine, too.

• Upgrade your motor oil. According to multiple independent university tests, Royal Purple motor oil improves fuel economy by as much as 5 percent and produces notable horsepower and torque improvements. That means motorists could save gas without giving up performance.

• Follow the maintenance recommendations in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. An out-of-tune engine can increase fuel consumption by as much as 15 percent. Always follow your car manufacturer’s suggested tune-up schedule.

• Lighten your load. Don’t carry extra weight in your vehicle. Doing so burns extra gas and could cost you money. Only carry sandbags, tools and other heavy items when you think you’ll be needing them. Also, don’t forget that carrying lots of small, light items can be the same as carrying one heavy item. Be sure to clean your trunk and backseat out regularly.

Term life insurance is the easiest type of life insurance to understand. To put it simply, the insured person pays a minimal premium per thousand pounds of coverage on an annual, semi annual, quarterly or monthly basis. If he or she dies within the term of the policy, the life insurance company will pay the beneficiary the face value of the policy.

Distinctive Features of Term Life Insurance

To better understand some of the distinctive features of term life insurance consider the following points:

First, term life insurance is “pure insurance” because when you purchase a term insurance policy you are only buying a “death benefit”. Unlike with other types of “permanent insurance” such as whole life, universal life, and variable universal life, there is no additional cash value built up with this kind of policy. Term insurance only gives you a specific death benefit.

Second, the coverage is for a defined period of time (the “term”) such as 1 year, 5 years, 10 years, 15 years, and so on. Once the policy is in force, it only remains in force until the end of the term — assuming you pay the premiums, of course.

Third, most term insurance policies are renewable at the end of the term. With what is known as “Level Term Life Insurance”, the death benefit remains the same throughout the term of the policy, but since the insured person is getting older, the premium will gradually increase. As time goes by the cost of a level term insurance policy may become greater than you are willing to pay for a simple death benefit. An alternative is the “Decreasing Term Life Insurance” policy in which the premium remains the same, but the death benefit goes down as time goes by.

Fourth, most term policies can be converted to permanent policies within a specific number of years. If you decide it is important to retain the insurance coverage, converting may be something you should plan for. You can anticipate the accelerating cost of term insurance premiums and convert your policy before the premiums become prohibitively high. It is true that in the short term the premium will usually be higher than if you stayed with the term policy. But over the long term this difference will decrease because of the rapid acceleration of the term insurance premium as you get older. A permanent policy also accumulates cash value which increases the total death benefit paid to your beneficiary.

Popular Uses of Term Life Insurance

Term life insurance is most appropriate whenever you want to protect your beneficiaries from a sudden financial burden as the result of your death. Here are some of the most common uses of term life insurance.

Personal Costs Due to Death – When a spouse or family member dies there will be immediate costs. Many people purchase a relatively small term life insurance policy to cover these costs.

Mortgage Insurance – Banks and financial institutions often insist that mortgage holders retain a term life insurance policy sufficient to pay out their mortgage. Such policies make the bank the beneficiary of the policy. If the mortgage holder should happen to die before the mortgage is paid off, the insurance policy will pay it out. This is also a great benefit to a spouse whose earning power will likely be decreased due to the death of his or her partner.

Business Partner Insurance – Term insurance is also used by business people to cover outstanding loans with their bank, or to purchase a deceased partner’s shares on death, if they had an agreement to do so. Most partnerships have an agreement of this sort, and the policy premiums are paid by the business.

Key Person Insurance – When a company loses key individuals due to death, this can often result in hardship to the company. Key person insurance is purchased by the company for any individual it deems to be “key”. The company itself is made the beneficiary of the policy. So when a “key” person dies, the company receives a cash injection to handle the problems associated with replacing that person.

Getting a Term Life Insurance Quote

Here are some things to look for when getting a quote for term life insurance:

1. The cheapest rate today will not be the cheapest rate tomorrow. For instance, the cheapest premium today will likely be for a Yearly Renewable Term policy. This policy is renewed every year at which time your premium is also adjusted upwards. This is fine if you intend to convert to a longer term solution (permanent insurance) in a year or two, or if you have a very short term requirement for insurance. But if you think you will need this insurance for a longer period, you would be better to commit to something like a Ten Year Term Policy. This locks your premium and death benefit in for ten years. Your rates will not increase until you renew.

2. Compare coverage and premium projections for different policies. Think about the long term and get the coverage that saves you money in the long run.

3. Make sure you completely understand the conversion options built into the different policies you are considering. Most policies will let you convert part or all of your term insurance into permanent insurance within a specific period of time, and without the need of a medical examination.

4. For some situations you should consider options such as Decreasing Term Life Insurance in which the death benefit decreases as time goes by. This makes sense if the policy is being used to cover a mortgage or business loan.

Term life insurance is not the answer to all life insurance requirements, but it should be part of a sound plan for every person’s financial future.

It is a well-known fact that Americans are miserable failures when it comes to saving for retirement. Well, the government is offering tax credits to change this for some of us.

Tax Credits for Retirement Savings

Social security is going to be under siege as baby boomers hit retirements. Fortunately, many baby boomers have put away piles of cash in 401ks and IRAs. Regardless, most people fail to do all they can in this regard. In an attempt to motivate us taxpayers to save as much as we can for retirement, Uncle Sam is dangling tax credits before us like the proverbial carrot.

The tax credit in question is the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit. Qualify for it and you may be eligible to take a credit of 1,000 for singles and 2,000 if youre filing jointly. The credit is eligible for those that make contributions to 401ks and retirement vehicles. The amount of the credit is determined on a sliding scale based on how much you make and contribute.

You can claim the retirement savings tax credit:

1. Individual taxpayers with incomes of 25,000 or less.

2. Individual taxpayers that are head of households and make 37,500 or less.

3. Married couples filing jointly who make 50,000 or less cumulatively.

There are some very minor restrictions regarding who is eligible for the tax credit. First, you have to be older than 18. Second, you cant be a full time student. Finally, another dependent cant claim you as a dependent on their tax returns.

Importantly, this tax credit is in addition to other tax advantages you gain from piling money into a retirement account. With a 401k, for instance, you can pound in pre-tax earnings, which cuts down your adjusted gross income for the tax year. Once you figure out your taxes, you can then deduct another 1,000 or so for the tax credit. Put another way, saving for your retirement is a no brainer.

The federal government is practically begging you to put away money for retirement. With this tax credit, there is absolutely no reason to fail to comply.